“Rip Currents … What Every Water User Needs to Know” by Tim Jones

Rips are, to most of us, a fantastic aid to our surfing when understood. They help us pass out through waves to the takeoff area and often they define the “peak” and create a better breaking wave.

So what are rips? A definition from the US Coast Guard …

 

 

RIP CURRENTS ARE POWERFUL CHANNELS OF WATER FLOWING QUICKLY AWAY FROM SHORE … WHICH OCCUR MOST OFTEN AT LOW SPOTS OR BREAKS IN THE SANDBAR AND IN THE VICINITY OF ROCKS AND STRUCTURES SUCH AS GROINS, JETTIES AND PIERS

However, they can also be a source of danger especially to those who are unaware of their existence. So here are a few interesting facts and basic statistics.

Annually, in the US, there are on average 100+ deaths from rips. In the UK, two in every three (2/3) water rescues are because of rips. Rips in the UK account for more deaths than bicycle accidents!

In Australia (2004‚ 2012), deaths per year attributable to Rips = 21; Cyclones = 7.5; Bush fires = 5.9; Floods = 4.3; and Sharks = 1. So when many beach goers in some parts of the world fear a shark attack, they would be far better served to understand and spot rips and respect the dangers they represent.

So how do we change the stats?

We, as surfers, can pass on this basic knowledge to others, surfers, or not. Remembering the US Coast Guard definition above, and observing the simple diagram of how rips work below, we can understand a few key principles.

There are a few different types of rip and these are:

• Permanent or Topographic
• Fixed
• Flash
• Travelling or Side Rip. Not long shore drift.

The Permanent or Topographic Rip

Let’s look at how each is defined. Firstly, the Permanent or Topographic rip uses physical features at the beach such as: rocks, piers, groins, sea walls and the water (rip), running out along these features. To help you find it, just look at how next to the feature there seems to be an area of calm water with little or no waves. In this picture below you can see the rip passing along the beach towards the cliffs. This is our Travelling or Side Rip. Then you can clearly see where it passes along the rocks and heads out to sea causing a clear path in the water. Look for the dark blue line with the white water each side. You can clearly see its path along the rocks and out to sea. Check how, as it moves away from the rocks, it loses it power and dissipates.

In this picture from Australia, the lifeguards have placed a coloured dye in the water to define the Permanent or Topographic rip.

The Fixed Rip

It’s quite a misleading name, “Fixed”, as these are rips that stay in one general area of a beach, but can move even up to 100m from one side to another. This is due to the change in density of the sand by wave action and the general topography of the beach. The picture on the right shows the gap in the surf line and the travelling rip which is coming from the left hand side of the beach (looking out to sea) and feeding into the rip.

Of course, we may get more than one type, or even all types, of rips occurring on a beach. Here is a particularly illustrative example. At the top of the picture we see a Permanent or Topographic rip running out by the rocks and road (note the absence of surf) and then below is our fixed rip causing a break in the surf line yet again.

Flash Rips

These often occur when a sand bar on a beach breaks down by wave and tidal action or as the tide moves past an outcrop of rocks. The diagram below illustrates typically how such a rip can arise. As the name suggests, they occur suddenly and can often be a great danger to swimmers who often do not know what to do if caught unawares in them.

How wide are rip currents, how fast can they flow, and where do they go?

On average, rips are typically about 9.5m or 31ft wide, but this is a real average as they can be less or more, and particularly the flash rips ‘begin’ by being very narrow. However, it’s a good rule-of-thumb to remember that they are normally about “as wide as a bus is long”!

They move on average at approximately 6.6kph or 4.1mph. That’s some speed, about the same pace as Olympic 400m Gold Medallist, Sun Yang’s average pace. Little chance then of out swimming or out paddling the rip.

Rips flow out to sea to a distance really depending on the volume of water that’s flowing into the beach. They go to an area we call the Head. So on a small day of surf the rip may stop and form the Head only a few hundred metres out to sea. On a big day of surf you may find it flowing kilometres out to sea. Below is a classic example of a beach break rip leading to a head, but of course heads can be found on reef set ups as well. The famous Sunset Beach in Hawaii is a great example. Lost boards there are often never found again!

Caught in the rip?

Now let’s hope that this advice is not needed if you’re a regular surfer. But do pass it on to others new to the sport or those who are just happy water users anyway. Firstly, prevention, don’t let the situation happen in the first place. Get advice about the beach and the surf you’re using and be able to spot the rips before entry, but more of that later. If someone is stuck in a rip, the first rule is don’t panic, and don’t whatever you do try to paddle or swim against it. Remember how fast it is going and just go sideways and towards the breaking waves that can help you. The picture below is simple and a good example of the action to take.

NOTE: Emerging evidence suggests that simply threading water and waiting for the rip to dissipate may be a prudent approach when caught in a rip. Currently, the approach described previously and illustrated above, i.e. swimming parallel to the shoreline/at right angles to the direction of the rip, is advocated by most surf lifesaving institutions and lifeguard professionals. Further research is required to definitively determine the safest strategy. For further information, check out this insightful article New Scientist article on research conducted at the Naval Postgraduate School (NPS) in Monterey, California, USA.

Know the Emergency Signal

It’s worth keeping in mind that people often want help even if they know what to do in a rip or when they see others caught in a rip. It’s a simple one arm in the air and waved from side-to-side to attract attention. This is like a 112 or 999 call of the sea and should be known by all and passed onto others. Just knowing this could save someone’s life and perhaps your own.

Many beaches now carry signs to remind us as shown here. Of course, just getting advice from locals and particularly lifeguards at beaches is number one. Remember, prevention is always better than cure.

So, we need to be aware of the dangers of rips, but also we may be experienced enough to want to use them to access the best surf.

So how do we spot them?

Here are some simple indicators:

1. A gap in the waves or where waves break then “back-off” (die out) and then reform again. The water moving out either stops the waves, creates a channel, or just stops the wave from breaking.

2. The surface of the water has ripples on it even if there is no wind at all. If there is wind, it seems more wind affected. Again, this is the outward movement of water creating the surface affect.

3. The rip will carry sand, seaweed, derbies and pollution. This is often a very clear indicator of a rip.

Line-ups

In order to help us use rips correctly, or to keep others away from them, we need to develop the skill of using line-ups. These are markers on the beach that help keep position in the best surf zone, and thus getting the best waves.

Also, choosing line-ups keeps others safe. Lifeguards do this all the time, setting safe swimming areas marked by flags. If you check the photo below you could choose many line ups from houses, trees, etc. But never choose objects that may move like an umbrella on the beach or a parked car for example.

So rips, although dangerous to those who are unaware of them, are often our best friends in surfing. Take time to observe the ocean before entering and never be afraid to ask questions. Be aware that some rips will take us out to surf we just can’t and don’t want to handle, and other rips will take us out to the best waves of our lives. The main reason for this article is to get you to transmit this basic knowledge to others so we can all enjoy the ocean in a much safer way. Thanks. Stay safe in the water.

The author carving a roundhouse cutback!

Tim Jones is an EASD Scout, International Surfing Association (ISA)/Surfing Great Britain (Surfing GB) certified Surf Instructor and Coach. He is¬†Director of Surf School Lanzarote. Tim has a long and active history with Surfing GB, beginning the first special needs initiative for surfing in the UK, and continues to contribute to the development of coaching skills within the organisation. The current women’s Welsh Junior and Senior Champion, Emily Williams is coached by Tim, as have past champions in Europe such as Mark Vaughen and Nathan Phillips.

Additional Materials and Resources

Irish Water Safety Stay Safe on the Surf

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association (NOAA) National Weather Service (NWS) Rip Current Safety

Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) Beach Safety In The Surf

United States Lifesaving Association (USLA) Rip Current Fact Sheet

UNSW Australia

Dr. Clayton Everline lecturing on Surfing Injuries at surfer’s Academy – a Full-Day Symposium on Health-related issues affecting the Surfer and Surfing Communities. With topics such as: Dangerous vs Safe, Causes, Manoeuvre preceding acute surfing injury, risk factors, and severity of injury.

Surfer’s Academy – Dr. Clayton Everline on “Surfing Injuries” from The EASD on Vimeo.

Dr. Everline is a Sports Medicine Physician based on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. He has served as Contest Doctor at numerous World Tour Events, including the Pipeline Masters. He is co-founder of Waves of Health and co-author of “Surf Survival: The Surfer’s Health Handbook”.

Thumb Nail Image Credit: Jim Davidson/Australia’s Surfing Life

Introduction

The European Association of Surfing Doctors (EASD) organised the very first Surfer’s Academy. This one-day health symposium for (non-medically trained) surfers was held in Sligo, on the NW coast of Ireland – home to famed spots such as Easkey and Mullaghmore – following the Third Annual Conference in Surfing Medicine.

Mullaghmore Landscape – EASD Ireland 2014 from The EASD on Vimeo.

The event was a resounding success and was positively received by the local surf community. Featured talks included Big Wave Surfing safety, sun/UV protection and skin cancer, and shoulder injury: prevention and warm-up routines; a truly diverse program, delivering ample opportunity for discussion and interaction between surf medics and the surf community.

There were many local contributors, such as Shore Shots Irish Surf Film Festival, Irish Big Wave paddle-specialist, horticulturalist, and organic farmer, Fergal Smith, and Irish Surfing Pioneer and Artist, Barry Britton to name a few.

The day was divided into thematic blocks covering the following subjects: ‘Injury and Prevention’, ‘The Elements’, ‘Country Soul’, and ‘Training and Performance’. Medical specialists and allied health professionals held fifteen minute, clear, unambiguous talks with simple take-home messages for the surfer. Just like TEDX for surfers!

‘Injury and Prevention’

‘Surfing injuries’ by Dr.Clayton Everline

Sports Medicine Specialist; Co-founder, Waves of Health; Co-author of “Surf Survival – The Surfers Health Handbook”, Hawaii

Most injuries come directly from the surfboard, from riding waves, specifically during a takeoff. Surf conditions often influence injury. Arguably the most famous injury owing to a surfboard is that of Jack O’Neill, wetsuit pioneer and founder of O’Neill. ‘Kooks’, who have minimal experience, seem to be at the higher risk, but in practice, the highest injury rate lies with professional surfers. Dr. Everline offers a word to the wise: Never to Drop In on another, and don’t grab the reef when wiping out, Mother Ocean is always stronger than you!

‘Shoulder Injury’ by Derek Parle 

Physiotherapist, Sligo, Ireland

What is the surfer’s shoulder and how to prevent injury and shoulder pain typical amongst surfers? Practical tips were offered, in fact, everyone was up-out-of-their-seats to demonstrate! First off, good posture is vital, as is stretching of the spine. The essence is to keep your lower back flexible and it’s better to stretch at home before going surfing than not at all (even 10 minutes helps). Surfers tend to skip stretching on the beach before going surfing, because the waves are pumping and the surfing can’t wait! If ongoing shoulder pain persists, rest, and seek further health professional advice.

‘The Surfer’s Medical Kit’ by Dr.Mischa Gottinger

GP/Trauma/Emergency Medicine Specialist; EASD Board Member; ASLS Course Director, Hamburg, Germany

The Surfer’s Medical Kit, the take-home message was twofold: take a medical kit that you can actually bring with you, and make sure you are capable of using the equipment in it. Detailed information to follow shortly on our website, so stay tuned!

‘Safety Considerations in Big Wave Surfing’ by Peter Conroy

Big Wave Surfer & Paramedic/Firefighter; ASLS Lifeguard Instructor, Co.Clare, Ireland

Paramedic, Firefighter, and Big Wave Surfer, Peter Conroy spoke about his role as a professional in (surf) rescue situations. He discussed safety, rescue techniques, and equipment, teaming up in big wave surfing, and the forming of the Irish Tow Rescue Club.

‘The Elements’ – Cold, UV, the Environment

‘Surfer’s Ear’ by Dr.Frederique Elffers-Tan

Ear Nose Throat Surgeon, Saint Jean de Luz, La Cote Basque/France

Surfer’s ear is all about bone growth in the ear canal due to the cold water exposure. With surgery excessive bone growth can be removed, but complications can’t be excluded and such a surgery can keep you out of the water for anything from two to eight weeks! Earplugs that are custom-molded are a good prevention measure. Keep earplugs dry and clean, otherwise you’ll keep re-infecting yourself, and do not stick your fingers (or anything else, including cotton buds) in your ears!

‘Surfer’s Eye’ by Dr.Ogi Markovic

Ophthalmologist; EASD Board Member; EASD Head of Outreach/Sponsorship/Education, Vienna, Austria

UV- B, C, and High Energy Radiation (HER) damage the eyes. Therefore, limit the UV exposure to the eye and remember to protect your eyes when surfing and on the beach. Eye damage may be increased by sunlight reflection, which may be caused by surfboards, white water, and wetsuits whilst surfing. Tissue damage of the eye caused by light can become severe. So, for prevention use good quality sunglasses and visit your doctor for checkups.

‘Surfer’s Skin’ by Dr. Till Geimer

Dermatologist, Munich, Germany

Surfers are a high-risk population for developing skin cancer. Be aware of what skin type you are; people with a very fair skin type have two times more chance of developing skin cancer. Protect yourself by choosing a SPF 50 sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection; apply at least 30 minutes before surfing. Apply it before, during, and after your surf session. The myth that sunscreen damages your health, is not scientifically proven, and there is no evidence to support this false assertion. White cheeks, frequently seen in the water, are normal. This is because of the zinc often contained in sunscreen.

‘National Surf Instructor Beach Award’ by Ronan O’Connor

Irish Water Safety (IWS), Ardmore, Waterford, Ireland

Ronan O’Connor, who is an IWS Water Safety Examiner and surfer, spoke about the promotion of water safety by IWS. Irish Water Safety is the statutory body established to promote water safety in Ireland. Their role is to educate people in water safety best practices. Ronan explained how they develop public awareness campaigns to promote necessary attitudes, rescue skills, and behaviour to prevent drowning and water related accidents. Ireland is the first country in Europe to introduce a National Surf Instructor Beach Award. “It’s all about keeping people safe, happy and stoked”. Beginner surfers are high-risk; therefore, educate your fellow surfers about local dangers.

‘Clean Coasts Ireland’ by Olivia Crossan

Coastal Programmes Officer, Sligo, Ireland

Olivia Crossan (Clean Coasts Ireland) gave an overview of the activities of Clean Coasts Ireland. Since 2013, an amazing 715 beach clean-ups have been organized. She presented the ‘2 minute beach clean’ (#2minutebeachclean), a new awareness initiative whereby every surf class holds a 2 minute beach clean-up following their lessons. It’s effective and has a low threshold for participation.

‘From ASLS to BSLS’ by Dr.Mischa Gottinger

GP/Trauma/Emergency Medicine Specialist; EASD Board Member; ASLS Course Director, Hamburg, Germany

Dr.Gottinger gave an overview of the Basic Surf Medicine Life Support (BSLS) course, currently in development by the EASD, for the non-medically trained general surfing public. This course will deliver basic first aid/first response, and water safety capability, to participants. The course will launch in late 2015/early 2016. Stay tuned to our website for details!

‘Country Soul’

‘Drop In Turn On Tune Out: Commitment, Death, and Anxiety’ by Dr.Greg Dillon

Psychiatrist and Dynamic Psychotherapist, New York, USA

Why are we stoked? The Wave Cycle; Commitment, Death and Anxiety; Surfing and Lessons in Life… From Erickson to Freud, dealing with conflict, dropping in versus pulling out. In surfing we experience “small deaths”, analogous to Near Death Experiences (NDE). Euphoria after threading the eye-of-the needle to emerge from a barrel, surviving, mastering the ocean, and being able to navigate catastrophe, surfing humbles and teaches in many ways!

‘Surfing & A Journey in Mental Health’ by Tony Bates

Clinical Psychologist and Founder, Headstrong

Surfing is a journey of mental health, it begins with the body. In many ways surfers are ‘on-the-edge’, yet not alone. We turn into the wave for the ride as we turn into our lives and face the challenges therein. Letting go in life is akin to towing a big wave, after that you have to assess, reassess, and adapt for what’s happening in real-time.

‘Why do we ride waves?’ by Boris Bornemann

Psychologist, Leipzig, Germany

What is flow? What are the reasons why we surf and why some of us take surfing to the extremes by going big? Big wave surfing encompasses sensation seeking. Is the surfer (big wave or otherwise) an addict?

‘The Good Life’ by Fergal Smith

Pro Surfer and Organic Farmer, Co.Clare, Ireland

Fergal Smith grew up in County Mayo on an organic farm. Following a seemingly stellar early career in surfing, injury caused Fergal to reassess his priorities, coming to a realization that his Health was his Wealth. Air, Water, and Food, are the three most important things in life. From this simple premise, he relocated to Clare, on the West coast of Ireland, and started a community farm. Breathing fresh air, drinking clean water, and growing wholesome food are his staple diet!

‘Training and Performance’

‘Rips and Stuff’ by Tim Jones

Director Surf School Lanzarote, ISA/SGB Instructor, Lanzarote, Spain

Tell other surfers about rips, because there are lots who don’t know the danger of rips, especially novices. Even a pro swimmer couldn’t out swim one! How to identify; How to escape a rip: Swim sideways out and wave with a straight arm if in distress. There’s more to follow on this and surfing safe, so keep an eye out on the homepage in the coming weeks!

‘Nutrition & Surfing Longevity’ by Dr.Patrick Scully

GP and MSc (Nutrition Medicine), Co.Tyrone, Northern Ireland

What to eat if you still want to be surfing when you’re 70+? Dr. Scully presented a range of common conditions seen in advanced age and discussed how, in his opinion, excessive sugar consumption may contribute to physical and cognitive deterioration later in life.

‘Surf Training – Deconstructing Manoeuvres: Compression, Extension, Rotation’

Director Surf School Surfles, Scheveningen, Lifeguard Instructor, Former Dutch National Longboard Champion, The Netherlands

A wide array of tips and tricks to improve your surfing were offered. Some helpful suggestions include: get someone to film you surfing, take part in surf coaching, watch films in slow-motion and focus on specific manoeuvres. When analyzing your surfing technique, try to assess whether the problem lays in one of the basic building blocks, i.e. compression, extension, or rotation (or a combination of these).

‘Surf Science: Training and Performance’ by Prof.Miguel Moreira

Professor in Human Kinetics, Technical University of Lisbon, Portugal; Technical Adviser to the Portuguese Surfing Federation

Surfing as a sport, may be divided into complex taxonomy of movement patterns. Prof.Moreira’s advice is to start early, bearing these movements in mind, but let kids play, let them practice a wide variety of different sports. Let kids be kids and enjoy their childhood. Don’t restrict or specialize too early. The optimum profile of the elite surfer is not yet defined, though further research is starting to identify the main characteristics.

See you in the water! Keep an eye on the website and social media for the upcoming events, podcasts and articles for further information on Health and Surfing.