We congratulate Jeremy Flores with two victories on one day. Congratulations on the title in one of the world’s most dangerous waves, in a field filled with talented professionals. Secondly, congratulations on winning the Tahiti Pro while wearing a helmet. This is the beginning of a cultural change that we strive to achieve in the surf sport: keeping the surfer healthy and safe. We will keep informing surfers, so they can make their own decisions on safety issues and injury prevention. Jeremy Flores made a decision to wear a helmet, and immediately got nicknamed “helmet man”. He was informed on the risks by trial and error. He suffered a horrific head injury on the 22nd of June during the Fiji Pro at Cloudbreak this year: two facial fractures, and a contusion in his brain. From our recent research, we learned that surfers who have suffered from an injury, change their safety behaviour. Everyone makes decisions on safety for themselves. Jeremy “the helmet man” Flores already did.
The European Association of Surfing Doctors (EASD) is once again delighted to announce that:
The ‘4th Annual Surfing Medicine Conference‘ is accredited by the European Accreditation Council for Continuing Medical Education (EACCME) to provide the following CME activity for medical specialists. The EACCME is an institution of the European Union of Medical Specialists (UEMS). The ‘4th Annual Surfing Medicine Conference’ is designated for a maximum of (or ‘for up to’) 16 hours of European external CME credits.
Through an agreement between the European Union of Medical Specialists and the American Medical Association (AMA), physicians may convert EACCME credits to an equivalent number of AMA PRA Category 1 Credits™. Live educational activities, occurring outside of Canada, recognized by the UEMS-EACCME for ECMEC credits are deemed to be Accredited Group Learning Activities as defined by the Maintenance of Certification Program of The Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Canada.
“Part Two: Pipe Dreams – An interview with longtime Pipeline Contest Surf Doc, Leland Dao”
By Naja Enevold Olsen
Leland Dao tapping some Pacific Ocean perfection on the North Shore!
Q1: We’ve heard about Leland the doctor, tell us more about Leland the surfer? Do you venture out into big surf or take on Pipeline yourself?
A: Yes, I am an avid surfer myself, I surf almost every day. I have even been known to surf some relatively big waves (maybe 10-20 foot faces). Nowadays though, I tend to shy away from the main crowded breaks (I do try to surf Sunset and Pipeline each year), but I have my own uncrowded spots close to home which I go to mostly. It’s pretty challenging surfing big waves by yourself, which I do often, but after 20 years on the North Shore I know the conditions pretty well. Although, this doesn’t exempt me from getting sent back humbly to the beach by Mother Nature once in a while.
I also take my kids out to the many beautiful gentle breaks we have here in Hawaii. Adam is 9 and Sarah is 6, they both surf in the Menehune contest circuit here. Nowadays the kids start pretty young.
Q2: It’s well known that doctors make terrible patients! I can personally testify to this. I ended up with a huge sea ulcer from a non-healing (eh…poorly tended to) foot wound a few years back in Australia. I also developed otitis eterna, and later ruptured my tympanic membrane. Yet, do you think I stayed out of the water? Eventually, both infections deteriorated, and I had to relent. Antibiotics, analgesia, patched-up with waterproof dressings, repeatedly surfing…inevitably, I ended up a little worse-for-wear. Sometimes you have to stay ashore, rest up, and heel. Well, at least for a few days!
I imagine you’ve had your fair share of cuts and bruises, etc. Have you sustained any serious injuries from surfing? Do you practice what you preach and follow your own advice?
A: I think we as surfers will often push ourselves to the limit so we can be in the water as much as possible. I remember surfing on a medium-size North Shore day several years ago when my front foot slipped off my board during drop in, and I heard a POP. Next came the excruciating pain from a torn hamstring. I continued to surf a few more waves and hobbled to the beach. I sustained a huge contusion to the posterior thigh. As the swell was still up the next day, I duct taped the area and paddled back out, all for a few more waves. Not the advice I would have given to a patient, but I think you’re right, we are often bad patients!
Q3: You’ve been a contest doctor for numerous events, e.g. the Pipe Masters, for nearly two decades now. Witnessing the sport’s progression, in terms of athleticism, e.g. aerials are becoming almost commonplace and the envelope is continually being pushed in big wave settings, this must have heralded some novel injuries? What do you think we can expect to encounter, potential hazards, management issues, etc., as surfing continues to develop? And do you observe any change in the severity of injuries down through the years?
A: I think the number of lower extremity injuries has increased with the new moves, including knee and ankle injuries. Also cuts and lacerations. Surfers who achieve this level of performance are highly skillful, and admittedly can often avoid injury, but this is not always the case. Many aerial maneuvers are often done during windy conditions, and sometimes this will blow the board out of position, placing the surfer in more precarious landing situations.
As far as other developments, such as the advances in the big wave arena, it’s truly amazing to see the paddle resurgence across the world, with committed athletes putting on spectacular performances. Surfers now fly all over the planet chasing storms, trying to raise the bar each time they go out into huge surf. It’s important to remember that they not only have the physical abilities to do so, but they also possess another essential component, that psychological preparedness and extreme desire to go out and pith themselves against massive waves. I recommend checking out “The Surfers’s Mind” by Richie Bennett for more on this. I find this mental aspect intriguing. However, I’m also glad to see more of these gladiators slowly but surely heeding safety calls and wearing flotation devices in giant surf.
The good, the bad, and the bizarre…I imagine you’ve seen it all! Surf-related injuries can be quite diverse. Which story/case has represented…
Q4: …the most serious situation and challenging in terms of management? And what was the outcome in this case?
A: Fortunately my work has been under the relatively stable environment of professional surfing events. We have the contest directors looking at the surf conditions daily and deciding whether to run events or not. We also have the water patrol lifeguards as part of the team. I call them the ‘Guardian Angels’, they can rescue an injured victim out of treacherous surf and have them back on the beach in 60 seconds, theoretically. And of course the professional surfers themselves, being great athletes gives them a the better chance of escaping serious injury.
I think that all of these contributions have made our jobs much easier over the years.
The unfortunate incident of Tuhiti Haumani this last winter was a really serious and dangerous situation which occurred just after the completion of the Volcom Pipe Pro. I was not directly involved, as the event had just finished at about noon this day. That afternoon the surf and wind came up extremely fast and out of an unusual direction, creating particularly hazardous and atypical conditions at the Pipeline area. A number of surfers went out including Tuhiti, he reportedly was hit on the head by his board and knocked unconscious. A number of the professional surfers and lifeguards rushed out to get to him in very difficult wind and rising surf conditions. They finally reached him, but he had been underwater for several minutes. The strong winds created havoc for the nine or so surfers trying to bring him ashore, it was becoming like a river flowing out to near the 3rd reef at Pipeline, a distance of probably ¼-½ mile or more. They lost his body at one point, but were able to recover him again. Finally, they got him to the beach, performed CPR, but no pulse was initially detectable. They did eventual get a pulse in the ambulance and transferred him to the hospital in critical condition. I had just returned to the event site to pick up a few more of things, only to hear what had just occurred from a number of the surfers who had been involved in the rescue, all were very distraught. After several weeks on life-support in the hospital ICU, I understand Tuhiti was repatriated to Tahiti with a tracheostomy tube.
Q5: …your most rewarding in terms of implementing a favourable outcome? And the most outrageous, just-plain-weird, case you’ve witnessed?
A: I feel that rehabilitating the surfers, helping them to overcome their injuries and continue to surf and compete is the best thing we do as Sports Med Physicians. The 2012 Pipe Masters, when Josh Kerr sustained a neck injury following a big over-the-falls wipeout, thankfully had a positive outcome. We brought him to the medical area, evaluated him, and sent him for imaging to clear C-spine injury. He returned to us afterwards and our team worked on him repeatedly with massage and manipulation. He was subsequently able to reenter the competition and continued winning heat after heat, even making it all the way to the finals against Joel Parkinson, the eventual Pipe Masters Winner and World Champion. We are very proud of our part in helping Josh attain that result at one of the World’s most prestigious surfing events.
Q6: Do you have a few useful tips for surfers, in general, in order to stay safe in the waves?
A: Always study and keep an eye on the prevailing conditions, know what you’re getting yourself into. Make sure you understand the dynamics of the break, and know how to get back to shore in case something happens. Know before you go!
Q7: Lastly, for how many more years are we likely to see you providing your expertise at North Shore contests?
A: I have been lucky enough to be attending physician at every Pipe Masters and Pro event since 1997. Wow, time goes by so fast! I still enjoy every moment covering these and other Hawaiian surfing events. It’s a great privilege to be a part of professional surfing. People don’t always realize that there is long season of North Shore surfing events beginning around late October and going all the way through to March. It takes commitment to cover these events, but as mentioned, I really do enjoy working on them. I still love my job as a Family Physician on the North Shore as well. I want to mention that we have a team of health professionals who make up the Sports Med Team for WSL Hawaiian events, working as a group to catering for the needs of the competitors and the events. We have Doctors, Chiropractors, Therapist, Trainers, and other allied healthcare providers. We have students from all across the world who inquire each year about coming over to help us, and many actually do make the trip to be a part of our Sports Med team. Each year the group develops a great rapport, just about everyone walks away with fond memories of contributing to the safe and successful running of events like the Triple Crown.
So back to your question: I feel just as inspired now as I did 17 years ago, and I don’t have any intentions of retiring soon. I love this job, and hope to be around for another 17 or more! I welcome the EASD and its members to come experience the Hawaiian Winter Surf Contests firsthand, we will be happy to show you how we do it here in paradise!
It has been my pleasure, Mahalo and Aloha!
Read Part I of “Pipe Dreams – An interview with Hawaiian Surf Doc, Dr.Leland Dao” here.
Naja Enevold Olsen MD is a surfer and doctor living in Aarhus, Denmark. She is Deputy Editor | Contributor Articles | EASD Marketing and Communications Team and has recently represented her country at the International Surfing Association (ISA) World Surfing Games 2015 in Nicaragua.
Pipeline has long held a formidable reputation in the surfing world. Its picture-perfect, elliptical barrels belie the fearsome reality of the reef below. When Pacific groundswell detonates on the shores of Ehukai, the feats of surfing athleticism on display can be spellbinding, especially when the world’s elite rally to put on a show at events such as the Pipe Masters. Threading Pipe’s pristine tubes with success requires walking that fine line between triumph and disaster; a foot out of place, a hasty shift of weight to the rail, can determine whether a surfer emerges to glory or potentially meets their maker among coral crags and recesses below. Either way, behind the scenes, a talented team of health professionals are on hand to provide medical support to competitors.
The EASD’s Dr.Naja Enevold Olsen MD caught up recently with North Shore Family Medicine/General Practitioner and longtime Pipeline Contest Surfing Doctor, Dr.Leland Dao DO.
Q1: It seems as if things took off around 1997, after you met two of the then key players within the ASP and Triple Crown of Surfing, Bernie Baker and Randy Rarick. Tell us more about how you came to be involved and why this kind of role appealed to you?
A: My work with professional surfing began after moving to Hawaii with a goal of practicing on the North Shore of Oahu. I had been accepted to the Family Practice Residency program at the University of Hawaii, and had met and treated several surfers already during my training. Upon completion in 1997, I started practicing with a medical group who opened an office for me in Haleiwa. The North Shore is a small community, everyone knows each other, so I approached Randy and Bernie about providing medical care at the events and they said ‘sure’. That year I also began covering the Triple Crown of Surfing. In addition, I was asked by then ASP CEO Graham Stapelberg to cover the Makaha World Longboard Championships. Back then the Greville Mitchell Surfing Foundation were a sponsor of the ASP, this included providing sponsorship for a physician and chiropractor at each WCT event. I have been involved with professional surfing ever since. To this day, I still love every moment working with the surfing community. I was lucky to have been invited to provide medical support at events in California, Australia, Japan, Europe, South Africa, and Tahiti. Obviously, it is not a full time job, but has been a great complementary adjunct to my medical practice here on the North Shore.
Q2: You have worked along side many different teams of water patrol/jet-ski rescue operators, lifeguards, and contest doctors at numerous events such as the Pipe Masters. Teamwork is a key component and you’ve worked with Dr.Clay Everline MD over the years, and more recently with Dr.Terry Farrell DO, both of which contribute to the EASD. What would you say are the attributes of a good Surf Doc?
A: I think the most important thing is to be readily available, and having an intimate understanding of the needs of the surfers and the surfing events. Over the years, we have developed a program which caters to the specific needs of surfing athletes, ranging from the professional level to amateur. Today, our event medical support and our Surfing Sports Med Program here on the North Shore is, I feel, one of the best.
Q3: Down through the years you have been involved as event doctor in many professional surfing contests. Is there a particular story/case/experience that left an impression on you? Something that has perhaps stuck with you?
A: I’ve got lots of stories, here are a few:
I think one of the most admirable traits about surfers is their passion and determination to be in the waves. I remember having to stitch up one competitor twice in one day! He had cut his leg, and ruptured his eardrum, but made it through his heat. He went out again, yet this time he hit his head and sustained a big gash to the forehead. Unfortunately, that was his last surf of the day.
During a recent Pipe Masters, the first day was huge 8-12 foot surf, we were all on edge watching nervously at these surf gladiators out there tackling these monster barrels. Suddenly, we were called down to the water’s edge to attend an injured competitor who had dislocated his shoulder. Fortunately, we were able to put the shoulder back in place right away on the beach (not an easy thing to do with a crowd glued to your every movement). A huge crowd had gathered on the beach to watched and live TV were broadcasting what was going on. Just as we had heard the clunk of his shoulder going back in, he asks us, “Is it in?”, I replied, “Yes it’s in!”. Next thing I know, he’s up and saying “Okay, I’m going back out”. We all just looked at each other in disbelief. Before we could say anything he’d started running back to the ocean, with the crowd cheering him on, television cameras rolling! Unfortunately, several minutes later he came back in, with (no surprises) the same shoulder dislocated.
I have been fortunate to have seen nearly all of the world championship titles crowned over the years, a few at Sunset Beach and most at Pipeline. It is always great to see the title race come down to the final event of the year. The Kelly Slater and Andy Irons showdowns were always the most epic battles of sheer talent and courage. The year the world title came down to AI and Kelly’s finals at the Pipe Masters was truly spectacular, an epic seesaw battle in the final heat of the year. To watch the crowning of the world championship in that fashion was a real treat to behold.
I remember the first year I went to Teahupoo the swell came up very quickly at the Tahiti Pro Trails. The event organizers were ready to send out the trialist into massive barreling waves. We waited in the channel until the mid-morning for Andy and Bruce Irons to arrive from the airport. A few guys had been catching waves here and there but when Bruce and Andy paddled into the line-up, it was a whole different show, they gave the most incredible big wave performance at Teahupoo that year. It was amazing to see the performance in person.
Q4: This year’s Billabong Pipe Masters was held in honour of former World Champion and Hawaiian pro-surfer, Andy Irons, who tragically passed away in 2010 at 32 years of age. What would you say has changed, if any changes are evident, in professional surfing in the wake of his tragic death?
A: I think if anything good can be said about the tragic early loss of Andy Irons it is that Professional surfing does do more testing of random and suspicious athletes under WADA guidelines. Pro Surfing is a relatively ‘clean’ sport, it is the responsibility of those of us who oversee the sport to keep it this way. Andy was one of the greatest competitors and performers in surfing history, we hope his early demise will be a reminder of what devastation both illicit and performance-enhancing drugs can potentially do to a person.
We just completed the Pipe Women’s and Jr Pro event last month, it is always great to see the women as well as the new school of young Junior surfers. Congrats to Keala Kennelly for coming out of retirement to win the Women’s event. Also, it’s a real treat to see the young guns really charging at the Jr Pro. This year the final was a real “nail biter”. Josh Moniz had a solid lead throughout, until Benji Brand caught a nice barrel to take the lead. Then, with less than 20 seconds left, Josh caught a very average left, and punted a massive backside air reverse 360 as the final horn sounded. This was exactly the manoeuvre Josh needed to clinch the win, and he did, what an absolute clutch performance! In my opinion, this type of surfing, with acrobatic, aerial manoeuvres on demand, is the most significant change to the sport of competitive surfing in recent years, and will carry performance surfing into the future.
Tune in next week to catch Part II of our interview with Hawaiian Surf Doc, Dr.Leland Dao.
Naja Enevold Olsen MD is a surfer and doctor living in Aarhus, Denmark. She is Deputy Editor | Contributor Articles | EASD Marketing and Communications Team and has recently represented her country at the International Surfing Association (ISA) World Surfing Games 2015 in Nicaragua.
Professional Medical Support Teams for Athletes
Increasing professionalism in surfing has widespread implications, not only for surfers, but also for the health professionals who look after these athletes at contest events. Dr.Leland Dao DO discusses this issue and highlights the key role played by medical support teams in the above clip.
We are proud to show you the latest video portraying some aspects of “Surfing Medicine”.
Our gratitude to all supporters, contributors, partners, surf med pioneers worldwide, our crew, mother nature, the ocean and the whole surfing community. Keep the surfer healthy and safe!
“As the world’s largest and leading collective of medical professionals in surfing the European Association of Surfing Doctors (EASD) is actively contributing to and defining standards for surfer welfare. By connecting health professionals representing all medical specialties with a passion for surfing and the ocean, the EASD seeks to share knowledge, expertise, and experience with the global surf community. In a fast developing global surf community, the EASD’s quest is to “Keep the surfer healthy and safe” through numerous activities, such as: treatment in day-to-day practice, serving as contest medical personnel in both professional and amateur surfing arenas, delivering training courses for medical lays and health professionals alike (Surf Life Support™), conducting scientific research work and publication, defining evidence-based standards within the specialty and the sport at large, and convening the Annual Conference in Surfing Medicine where health professional from all over the world convene. Share the passion? See you on one of the various EASD events and in the water!”
Step into the world of nomadic wilderness and surf photographer Christian McLeod
Christian’s photography has appeared in numerous international surf publications, including The Surfer’s Journal and SURFER Magazine among others. His client list includes many well known surf company brands such as O’Neill, Hurley, and Billabong, as well as tourism agencies, Tourism Tropical North Queensland (Australia) and Tourism Ireland.
Check out the Surfer’s Academy video presentations here. You can also watch the awesome Surfer’s Academy promotional trailer series and more on the EASD Vimeo page!
Coming Soon…
Stay tuned to the homepage for details of Outreach 2015: Surfer’s Academy!
The ‘
A: Fortunately my work has been under the relatively stable environment of professional surfing events. We have the contest directors looking at the surf conditions daily and deciding whether to run events or not. We also have the water patrol lifeguards as part of the team. I call them the
Read Part I of “Pipe Dreams – An interview with Hawaiian Surf Doc, Dr.Leland Dao” 
A: I think the most important thing is to be readily available, and having an intimate understanding of the needs of the surfers and the surfing events. Over the years, we have developed a program which caters to the specific needs of surfing athletes, ranging from the professional level to amateur. Today, our event medical support and our Surfing Sports Med Program here on the North Shore is, I feel, one of the best.
During a recent Pipe Masters, the first day was huge 8-12 foot surf, we were all on edge watching nervously at these surf gladiators out there tackling these monster barrels. Suddenly, we were called down to the water’s edge to attend an injured competitor who had dislocated his shoulder. Fortunately, we were able to put the shoulder back in place right away on the beach (not an easy thing to do with a crowd glued to your every movement). A huge crowd had gathered on the beach to watched and live TV were broadcasting what was going on. Just as we had heard the clunk of his shoulder going back in, he asks us, “Is it in?”, I replied, “Yes it’s in!”. Next thing I know, he’s up and saying “Okay, I’m going back out”. We all just looked at each other in disbelief. Before we could say anything he’d started running back to the ocean, with the crowd cheering him on, television cameras rolling! Unfortunately, several minutes later he came back in, with (no surprises) the same shoulder dislocated.
Tune in next week to catch Part II of our interview with Hawaiian Surf Doc, Dr.Leland Dao.