Flow

“I paddled fast to my left, angling toward the next wave, stroked and stood and felt the board accelerate and pumped once and into my bottom turn, and then the world vanished. There was no self, no other. For an instant, I didn’t know where I ended and the wave began....

Drop In Turn On Tune Out: Commitment, Death, and Anxiety

“Surfing gives you very elemental illustrations of broader truths by serving as a microcosm that we can grasp” – Steve Pezman, surfing sage, The Surfer’s Journal Publisher, and then SURFER Magazine Editor in conversation with countercultural icon,...

Heads-Up Surfing!

Protective Head Gear: How come this never caught on? We know surfing has a relatively low risk of injury in comparison to a range of other sports.  Nathanson et al. reported an acute injury rate of 0.9 injuries/person/year (1) in an observational, retrospective study...

Performance & 2D:4D

Could prenatal hormone levels influence surfing prowess? The relative length of your second digit (i.e. index finger, 2D) to that of your fourth (ring finger, 4D) expressed as a fraction is known as the digit ratio or 2D:4D. This ratio has been demonstrated to...

Surf Science Snapshot!

Short & stocky or tall & thin … MR standing tall at Off the Wall 1976Although the evidence is limited, Mendez-Villanueva and Bishop (1) find, in their comprehensive review of the literature, that competitive surfers seem to be shorter and lighter than...

Paddling Around!

Are we really paddling that much? In a study performed at the Sports Performance Research Institute at Auckland Technical University by Farley et al. (1) twelve nationally ranked NZ surfers were equipped with heart rate (HR) monitoring devices, global positioning...